When “Authentic” Becomes a Product: What Ipoh Reminded Me About Hospitality Identity
A recent trip to Ipoh during the Chinese New Year made me think about something many hospitality brands face: when a place becomes popular, does it have to become commercialised? What do we stand to lose along the way? This piece reflects on the tension between growth and identity, and how it affects the way we prepare students for the industry. Systems can scale in accordance with the times, but the essence of hospitality must be preserved.
Ipoh has a way of pulling people back. Maybe it’s the rhythm of old shop lots, nostalgic tastes and smells, or the feeling that the town still has a personality, something you don’t find “anywhere else”. On a recent visit to my husband’s hometown, I found myself returning to a question many hospitality practitioners quietly wrestle with: when a destination becomes successful, does it have to become commercialised? And if it does, what gets lost along the way?
Over time, many beloved neighbourhood eateries, cafés, and heritage corners turn into curated experiences. A queue forms, a franchise concept appears, packaging gets sleeker, menus expand, and prices increase – but these are not necessarily bad points. Commercialisation can mean improved hygiene standards, stronger supply chains, more job opportunities, and more consistent customer service. It can also help local brands scale and survive instead of fading away.
But there’s also a softer change guests can sense, even if they can’t explain it. The story becomes a tagline. The craft becomes a routine. The space starts to resemble others. The experience feels more efficient and transactional, but less personal. Sometimes the food is still good, but it has lost its unique touch.
This tension isn’t unique to Ipoh. It’s happening across Malaysia and beyond: heritage towns balancing tourism, hotels adapting to expectations driven by social media, and F&B outlets chasing volume while trying to stay true to their roots. The real question isn’t “commercialisation: yes or no?”, but more of what should scale, and what must be protected.
This matters in education, too, because our students will step into workplaces where results are real and measurable. They learn about occupancy, covers, ratings, repeat guests, and revenue targets. They will face real constraints: cost pressure, manpower shortages, long hours, and constantly shifting guest expectations. If we only teach students how to optimise operations, they may become efficient managers, but risk forgetting what hospitality is really about. However, if we only talk about “heritage” without teaching the commercial reality, we risk sending them out unprepared.
One practical way to bring this to life is to start a discussion using familiar examples: a café concept trying to scale, a hawker legacy brand modernising, a boutique hotel sharpening its brand, or even a university-run training restaurant balancing student learning with guest expectations. In small groups, the conversation naturally becomes two columns.
Students identify what should be standardised for consistency (food safety and hygiene standards, service sequence, recipe control, purchasing discipline, training systems) versus what should stay flexible to protect authenticity (storytelling, local touches, cultural cues, personalised service, or the “feel” of a place).
Authenticity isn’t only about old walls, vintage tiles, or traditional menu names. It’s about intention. A business can modernise and still feel authentic if it stays true to the values behind what it offers. Growth can be responsible when it’s guided by what the brand stands for, rather than by what sells fastest.
And then there are subtle signs that something is shifting. Warm service gets replaced by scripts that sound polished but feel emotionally empty. Local ingredients or techniques disappear because service speed becomes the top priority. The guest journey becomes “photo-first” instead of comfort-first. Community ties weaken when long-term suppliers are replaced without much thought, and heritage stories are simplified into marketing taglines. None of these choices is dramatic on its own, but together they reveal what a brand truly prioritises. Over time, those priorities determine whether a place becomes memorable or simply marketable.
Growth is important, but so is guardianship. Hospitality leaders are not merely operators, but stewards of experience, culture, and community. Commercialisation will continue to accelerate, driven by demand, competition, and digital visibility, as businesses are pushed toward replication and optimisation. Nevertheless, the true winners will not be those who grow the fastest, but those who grow without becoming forgettable.
Ipoh reminded me that identity is not a “nice-to-have.” In hospitality, identity is value. Our role as educators and industry partners is to help the next generation recognise the difference between building a brand and selling a place. The former can be scaled. The latter, once lost, is difficult to restore.
Shireen Tan Pei Mun
Department of Hospitality and Events
School of Hospitality and Tourism Management
Email: @email